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One five-diamond favorite is the cashew-crusted trigger fish, topped with his
famous "Confederate Caviar," a black-eyed pea concoction. "I tried to take it
off the menu and guests got a little upset."
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"I'd rather be in the kitchen than anywhere else," says
Warren Stephens. His first degree is in economics and history
from UNC-Chapel Hill. At 26, he went to Johnson & Wales in Charleston after
stints in a hardwood flooring business and doing public relations for a tobacco
company.
Look for sweet potatoes and mustard greens to grace fish and fowl. Duck,
pheasant and crawfish are local, and though the grouper and wild stripe
bass - "my favorite fish in the world" - come from Norfolk, they're caught
in North Carolina waters, Stephens points out.
Nothing Cajun is here, nor Pacific Rim or Pan Asian. "I have a black truffle
tuna and that's as far as I'll lean in another direction - and I still got grits on it.
We're a country hotel. I don't need to have ginger sauces."
"I don't like being bound by the calendar," says
Warren Stephens, who made 3 changes in the menu in one week. "I like being bound
by the seasons."
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Fearrington House Restaurant
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Fearrington House Restaurant is in Fearrington Village in Pittsboro, North Carolina.
Evening meals are five-course, "prix fixe" for $65, although guests at the inn
can order a la carte. The menu changes according to season; a popular dessert
is the quartet of small fruit affairs that also changes according to season.
Information:
Fearrington Village, 2000 Fearrington Village, Pittsboro, NC
27312; (919) 542-2121 phone; (919) 542-4202 Fax; fhouse@fearrington.com.
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Aida Rogers has worked in newspapers, magazines, legal newsletters
and television. USC graduate and Lexington, SC native currently is
managing editor of Sandlapper, The Magazine of South Carolina, for which she
writes a column about the most popular restaurants in The Palmetto State.
Call her with your favorites at (803) 808-1664
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